Home in Piazza del Popolo, Orvieto

Thursday

Bath – 18.5.2010

On a morning train for about an hour and a half I was able to really get a good glimpse of the English country side. It alternated between grass, dirt, clay filled dirt, and neon yellow fields of fennel. Every so often a cottage, ruins, livestock, and rivers with river boat houses would catch my eye. The cities where the train stops were easy to distinguish jam packed with row houses and more modern buildings and amenities. Eventually we arrived in Bath with warmer weather than what we experienced in Ireland. Then we exited the train station out onto a busy street so bright I was squinting with my sunglasses on. We began to ascend to one of the main sites we wanted to see here, the Royal Crescent and Circus. I have longed to see this place since I learned about it and saw pictures in one of my architectural history classes. We walked along the river until we reached a beautiful peaceful church. On the way we stopped for just a few minutes because we have seen churches out the wazoo these past four months and there was so much to see and do here. Stopped at an intersection we noticed a sign for the Victoria Art Gallery. Just below the name were some of the most enticing English words, “Admission free.” The first floor was the most unique exhibit of art that I have ever seen. The walls were filled from baseboards to crown molding of photographs, paintings, drawings and sculptures. A chaotic and crowded display of eclectic subjects and styles made it hard to appreciate the individual works. We followed some signs up a big beautifully carved dark brown wooden staircase to the second floor. There was a completely different display up there. It took on a traditional museum type of exhibition style for the art and artifacts it was displaying. There were also formative plaques to explain what we were looking at and what role it played in the different eras of art, society, and economy here in Bath and England. Looking for food to give us more energy we popped into the indoor shopping center and ate a typical English sandwich with chips (fries to keep from confusing my fellow Americans). Then we continued our hike up the hill to the location of the Royal Crescent and Circus. We walked up hill on a quaint British street lined with adorable row houses. At the peak of the hill the houses parted. In front of our eyes erupted a circular green space full of gigantic old trees surrounded by a curved façade. Through one of the four breaks in the continuous wall of houses was a road leading us directly to the Crescent. The pale off white houses from the Circus seemed to just wrap down the side of the street then began to curve around again in a semi circle forming the Crescent. A large green lawn cradled in the Crescent was full of people of all nationalities and ages enjoying the perfect weather by lounging, napping, eating a picnic meal, reading, and playing games like football (aka American soccer). The weather could not have been any better. It was much larger than I had expected. What amazed me most was that people still live in these houses. Ever since I had seen photographs of this in my History class a few years ago I have wanted to see it for my self. After walking around and through it as the sun played hide and go seek with us using the clouds we began to walk back down to the other major attraction here, the Roman Baths. They alone have been what has brought people here for centuries. We decided to stop at the Fashion museum on the way because we heard that it was interesting and fun. It was fascinating to me to learn about the different eras, decades, layers of clothing and accessories that were popular. Listening and reading about the history and reasons behind them completed the picture. Then we entered a short pink room with a few mirrors, benches and articles of clothing hanging on hooks on the wall. It was the dress up in a corset and hoop skirt room. The three of us had fun trying on the garments and understanding why people were so proper and graceful, that is all you could be in these things. There was no possible way for me to slouch when I sat down in the corset. No wonder they all had good posture, they had help. When we had finished having our fun there we finally were headed to our last stop, the Roman Baths when a man dressed in Regency period clothing caught my eye. It was the Jane Austen Center. I just had to stop and check it out. Butterflies excited my soul bringing an elated smile to my face as I walked past the gentleman and entered the house. They had a tour of the Center where they displayed items of hers or things used in the movies made from her books in a old home similar to what she lived in with her family when they were here in Bath. With a little time left before our train the girls went ahead to ensure a good Roman Bath experience for themselves. I could not tear myself away so I stayed for the tour. The tour guide told me more about her whole family and life. Some I already knew but about half was new to me. I even learned how to flirt with a fan. In the gift shop I was tempted to buy a calligraphy pen and L wax stamp letter sealer. My desire for them was mostly due to my fascination and appreciation for the art of writing. I was strong enough to refrain and settle for some postcards. With about an hour before our train I rushed to the Roman Baths to see what I could. I was able to see it all surprisingly with the ridiculous amount of tourist packed in there. It was very similar to the ones I had seen in Italy making it easy to understand and move through faster. I met up with the girls in the gift shop to walk back to the station for our train. Today was one of the most enjoyable days of my touring around thanks to the gorgeous weather and surprise of the Jane Austen Center. Just thinking about her and her work warms my heart with a beaming smile. The whole train ride back I started planning my next trip back. I found out they have a Jane Austen evening event where lovers of her work attend a party dressed in clothing from her time. At the party people eat, mingle, and dance to the live orchestra playing time period appropriate music. Sounds like my kind of fun. I can’t wait.

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