Herculaneum - 17.2.2010

Cloudy weather as we drive to Herculaneum. Close to the current coastline is the site they have excavated. It is amazing to see so much of the city was preserved under all the volcanic lava, dirt and ash. What is crazy to think about as I look down on the site is how I am standing where the sea used to be. Enough flowed down from the Volcano over the entire city and move the shore at least 10 miles away. I can see a series of identical archways at the base most likely boat docks. Walking into the city you see a basalt stone paving for the main street not warn down too much, tufa curbs and concrete with fragments of clay tiles and pots as aggregate. Moving up you see a mixture of stones, plaster, colorful frescos, sky and a casually oxidized wood. The curbs are about 18” high on avg, why…high water levels? What is even more interesting is the fact that people have always lived extremely close to shore lines and they most likely always will. That makes me think of another city close to water that has had a couple catastrophic events occur in my home state, Galveston Island. Yet they are still living there even after a few other hurricanes have come through. The one in 1900 completely destroyed to the whole island and today they are fixing up the buildings once again from the most recent one a couple of years ago. New Orleans is another good example. The same here at Herculaneum buried underneath current homes, apts and business. What is our obsession with living in places we know are dangerous; tornado alleys, hurricanes zones, flood planes, etc. Are we slow to learn, is it that the places are beautiful, or is living with the danger at our door step allow us to have excitement and reality of eventual death close so we can be reminded to live our lives. History class is all making more sense as I wask in to the atrium of a Domus. A fascinating space, square, tall, with a central focus open to the sky above. Looking deeper inside there is green grass growing in the peristyle garden with brick columns lining the edge. Stepping into a bedroom off the atrium my eyes are stimulated by the colors on the wall. A vibrant red on the frescos that I can’t believe how well preserved the color is not faded at all, but there is some discoloration at the bottom due to the intense heat of the lava turning it orange. Walking around these ruins has shown the intelligence of these people seeing the sophisticated ways of building and arranging the city and homes. There are several bars in the town all very similar same layouts and same stones used on the outside of the counters, which were made up of large clay pots and cement. Openings in the counter top were where the mouths of the pots were to allow the customers to just scoop out their water or wine. Lastly what will stick with me the most is at the edge of town closes to the old shore was a large home that had a gorgeous covered patio area with a fountain. I can imagine leaning up against one of the white columns looking at the sunset on the ocean as a cool breeze carrying the smell of fresh lavender across my body blowing my comfortable light clothing. What a view!